Dining in Istanbul

Istanbul Dining
Turkish cuisine is much like the country itself: a charming collision of Asian and European influences, with quite a few elements that are all its own. Istanbul is a bustling, largely cosmopolitan city with many dining options, but visitors and locals alike tend to choose centuries-old specialties like “sis kebabs.” Traditionally, they’re made with chunks of lamb—the most important meat in a Turkish kitchen—that are skewered and grilled. Sukru Nun Yeri in Sultanahmet is a very small restaurant that really knows kebabs. Two more high-end places that cater predominantly to tourists are Develi (five locations) and Sahan (eight locations).

Turkish coffee is a well-known beverage, so it may be surprising to Westerners that black tea is served more often—not only at meals, but during the course of nearly any social interaction. As popular as tea is, though, coffee shops are booming. Turkish coffee—strong, often sweet, and typically served in small cups—can be found in independent shops like Java Studio Istanbul on Sultanahmet, which is a combination coffee shop and art gallery that showcases great coffees, homemade treats, and fine art from local artists. Fazil Bey’s Turkish Coffee House, which has three stores throughout the city, serves up trays laden with Turkish coffee, Turkish delight, and cold water. Simdi Cafe on Asmali Mescit is located in a beautiful old building, creating a chic spot to grab a delicious cup of coffee and relax in the quiet ambience.

Though desserts aren’t the first thing one might associate with Turkish dining, they are, in fact, very much a part of the meal. Baklava, that famous Greek pastry, is thought to have originated in Turkey and is traditionally filled with walnuts and pistachios. One difference most can taste right away is that Turkish bakalava is made with sugar rather than honey. You can find excellent baklava at Dedeoglu, where the pastries are crescent-shaped rather than square. Other great shops include Karakoy Gulluoglu, which claims to make 70,000 pieces of the sweet per day; and Imam Çagdas in Gaziantep, the area that’s known as the birthplace of baklava in Turkey.

Below are fine dining choices that present the best of what Istanbul has to offer:

Asitane
Kariye Camii Sok. 18, Edirnekapi, Istanbul, Turkey
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Asitane, located in Edirnekapi, takes its name from one of the appellations given the country during Ottoman rule and specializes in fine Ottoman-inspired cuisine. What makes this restaurant so unique is that it serves dishes created from recipes that were all but forgotten over the centuries (modified a tad for modern tastes), using techniques very similar to those of 500 years ago.

Çiya Sofrasi
Guneslibahce Sokak 43, Kadikoy, Istanbul, Turkey
€€€€
The copper plates at Çiya Sofrasi are an artistic touch to the eclectic, deliciously Turkish food waiting to be discovered. Bringing together flavours from the different regions of the country, the menu includes impressive standouts like lamb stew, as well as many items whose star players are fruits and vegetables. But the innovative desserts—like candied pumpkin slices—are perhaps the most intriguing aspect of the restaurant.

Feriye Restaurant
Çırağan Cad. 40, Ortaköy, Istanbul
€€€
Feriye Restaurant, located right on the Bosphorus, presents contemporary takes on Turkish-Ottoman cuisine. Offering seasonal menus that incorporate only locally-grown ingredients, a night at Feriye might include spicy cured meat wrapped in grape leaves or flaky fish stuffed with pine nuts and bathed in a pepper sauce.

Körfez
Körfez Cad. 78, Kanlıca, İstanbul
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Körfez is the handiwork of Ömer S. Salur, a passionate perfectionist when it comes to the cuisine presented in his restaurant—an innovative departure from traditional Turkish food. The experience, marked by gorgeous waterfront views, includes wonderful fare such as the signature salt-baked fish and mackerel burgers studded with pistachios.

Mikla
Marmara Pera Hotel, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 167/185, Tepebasi, Istanbul
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Mikla is a restaurant to be reckoned with, in part because of its stunning views, which diners agree are among the best in the city. Certainly one of the ritziest restaurants in Istanbul, visitors will be treated to a superior wine list and an inventive menu that revolutionizes classic Turkish dishes. For the ultimate experience, choose the 12-course tasting menu.

Tugra
Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski Istanbul, Ciragan Caddesi 32 Beşiktaş, Istanbul
€€€€
A fixture of the opulent Ciragan Palace Kempinski, the award-winning Tugra serves excellent Turkish-Ottoman cuisine that highlights some of the recipes enjoyed by the royals who once occupied this sultan’s palace. Superb wines from an excellent wine cellar accompany plates of lamb külbasti and testi kebab, followed by a sumptuous sweet trolley.